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Achkan is a type of sherwani that is tailored like a knee-length jacket, also known as Baghal bandi. The word achkan is derived from Angrakha, which translates to body protector. Worn by the men in the Indian subcontinents, the cut, silhouette, and lengths of achkan varied according to different parts of the country. The achkan is known as Daura in Nepal and North East India, Cholu or Chola in Indian Himalayas and Angi in Southern parts of India.
The Greek works of literature mention women and men wearing achkan-like ensembles during the Mauryan period.
The achkan sherwani is customised in rich and tactile handwoven fabrics like silk, jacquards and brocades. It features traditional embroidery like gota, zardozi, zari or badla work. The achkan sherwani is the traditional attire for wedding ceremonies
and formal festive occasions in the Indian subcontinent.
The Achkan is generally worn for formal festivities in the winter in parts of Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Delhi, Punjab and Hyderabad. While the achkan sherwani was popularised by the Hindu community, Muslims favoured the classic sherwani more. The achkan was also stylised into the Nehru jacket, which became immensely popular in India.
The Achkan features a side opening customised with drawstrings. This style is known as Baghal bandi or Angrakha. The Achkan was traditionally worn with a sash known as patka, a waist belt called Kamar bandh or Dora wrapped around the waist to accentuate the silhouette. While the sherwanis were teamed as an embroidered outer coat during medieval times, achkans have always been teamed with a dhoti or churidar. The Achkan, a traditional Indian garment, is a regal and ornate coat often worn with a sherwani or Jodhpuri Suit, exuding elegance and sophistication.
The Achkan sherwani has continued to be a mainstay in the festive and wedding wardrobe of men. Pernia's Pop-Up Shop curates the most coveted iterations of classic and contemporary sherwanis for stylish men. While Siddartha Tytler puts a contemporary spin on its tailoring, Talking Thread Men displays a range of classic clean-cut Achkans for effortlessly stylish men. Yajy by Aditya Jain makes a case for deconstructed Achkan jackets for modern men.